Glossary · Read listings like a collector
Vintage Lure Condition Terms and Abbreviations, Explained in Plain English
Lure listings have their own shorthand. “NIB, minor hook drag, light age lines, correct box.” If you have collected for years, that sentence tells you a lot. If you have just inherited a tackle box, it reads like a code.
This glossary decodes the terms you will see most often, explains what each one actually means for a lure, and flags the places where sellers use the same word differently. It pairs with the site’s guide to describing lure condition without overcleaning, which covers how to examine a lure. This page covers how to read and write the words.
Quick answer
- There is no single official grading standard that every seller follows. Words like “excellent” vary from seller to seller.
- Trust specific descriptions and clear photos over a single grade word.
- The terms that most affect collector interest: repaint, replaced hardware, box match, and paint loss.
- “Age lines” and light “hook drag” are normal on many fished wooden lures. Big chips, flaking, and repaint are a different matter.
- When in doubt, ask the seller to describe the flaw in a sentence and show a close-up.
Grade words and why they slip
Collectors, clubs and auction houses have used descriptive grades for a long time, usually along a ladder like this. Some also use a numeric scale. The exact definitions differ by source, so treat this table as a general guide, not a standard.
| Grade word | What it usually suggests | What to confirm |
|---|---|---|
| Mint / New | Unused, as it left the factory, often still boxed | Any storage marks, box wear, hook rust |
| Excellent | Very light wear; may have been in a tackle box but little or no fishing use | Small chips or rubs the photos might hide |
| Very Good | Some use: light hook drag, minor chips, age lines | Where the chips are, how large |
| Good | Clearly fished: several chips, worn paint on high points | Whether the wear reaches bare wood or plastic, any repairs |
| Fair / Poor | Heavy wear, missing paint, damage, sometimes missing parts | Completeness and originality, which still matter |
The plus-and-minus problem. “VG+” and “EX-” are common, but one seller’s VG+ is another’s EX-. If the lure matters, ignore the grade and read the description and photos.
Paint and finish terms
- Age lines
- Fine cracks in the paint or clear coat, common on wooden lures as the wood and finish expand and contract over time. Usually described as light, moderate or heavy. Some collectors see light age lines as evidence of age and originality; heavy lines that lift paint are a condition issue.
- Crazing / checking
- Often used interchangeably with age lines. Some sellers use “checking” for a coarser crack pattern.
- Chips / chipping
- Small spots where paint has come off, often at the nose, lip area, belly, or around hardware. Location and size matter: a pinpoint chip on the belly is different from a large chip on the head.
- Flaking
- Paint lifting or coming off in layers. More serious than chips because it can continue.
- Paint loss
- A general term for missing paint. Ask for an estimate of how much and where.
- Rubs / high-point wear
- Worn finish on the parts of a lure that touch things: the back, nose, and belly.
- Yellowed varnish / clear coat
- Clear finishes darken with age. This can change how a color pattern looks, which is one reason color identification from photos is tricky. The site’s guide on evidence for rare color claims goes into this.
- Original paint / OP
- The finish applied by the maker, with no repaint or touch-up. A claim, not a guarantee.
- Touch-up
- Small areas of added paint, often to hide chips. Should always be disclosed.
- Repaint / RP
- The lure has been fully or largely repainted. Repainted lures are generally treated very differently from original-paint lures by collectors. See how to spot possible repaint.
- Restored
- Repaired, repainted, or rebuilt to look original. Should be disclosed clearly; some restorations are done openly and well, but they are not original lures.
Hardware and hook terms
- Hook drag / hook rash
- Marks or scratches in the paint where hooks swung against the body. Very common on fished lures and on lures stored loose. Light hook drag is expected; heavy hook drag through to wood or plastic is a bigger deduction.
- Original hooks
- Hooks believed to be the ones the lure shipped with. Hard to prove; look for matching style, consistent wear, and correct attachment. The site’s hardware checklist covers how to check.
- Replaced hooks
- Hooks swapped for later or modern ones. Common, and should be disclosed.
- Hook hanger / hanger
- The hardware that attaches a hook to the body. Different styles were used by different makers and eras.
- Line tie
- Where the line attaches. Bent or replaced line ties are worth noting.
- Lip / diving lip
- The bill that makes a lure dive. Bent, cracked or replaced lips are common faults.
- Props
- Spinning propellers on some topwater lures. Note if bent or missing.
- Rust / pitting
- Surface rust may be light; pitting means metal has been eaten away. Note both, and note any rust staining on the paint.
Box and packaging terms
- NIB / IB
- New in box / in box. “NIB” implies unused; “IB” only says the lure comes with a box.
- Correct box / matched box
- A box believed to be the right one for that model, color and era. Not the same as the original box the lure shipped in. See how to match boxes to model and era.
- Married
- A lure and box (or lure parts) put together after the fact. Not always a problem, but it should be disclosed.
- Box only
- An empty box sold alone, often to someone who has the lure.
- End label / color code
- The printed label on a box end, often showing model and color numbers. Helpful but not proof; see the guide on how box color codes help and mislead.
- Inserts / papers
- Instruction sheets, catalogs or advertising slips packed with the lure. Their presence can matter to collectors.
- Carded
- Packaged on a cardboard backing card, often with a plastic bubble. Common on later lures.
- NOS
- New old stock: unsold, unused inventory, often from an old store.
- Store stock / dealer stock
- Similar to NOS; sometimes found in multiples.
Use and history terms
- Fished / unfished
- Whether the lure appears to have been used. Unfished does not automatically mean unboxed or perfect.
- Tackle box wear
- Wear from being carried in a box rather than from fishing. Usually rubs and light hook drag.
- Teeth marks
- Marks from fish. Some collectors enjoy them as character; they still count as wear.
- Provenance
- Documented history of ownership. A note from the original owner’s family is nice; it is not authentication.
How to write your own condition description
Whether you are listing a lure or just cataloging your own, describe in the same order every time:
- Identity: maker and model if known, size, material, color as you see it.
- Paint: original or not, age lines, chips (where and roughly how many), hook drag.
- Hardware: hooks, hangers, line tie, lip, props; original or replaced if you can tell; rust.
- Box and papers: present or not, condition, whether it appears to match.
- Anything unusual: repairs, marks, oddities.
- Photos that show every flaw you described.
Example: “Wooden body, appears original paint. Light age lines on back, three small chips at nose, light hook drag on belly. Hooks appear consistent with era, light rust. No box.” Nothing in that sentence requires a grade word, and nothing is left for the buyer to guess.
Using the vocabulary to research value
Once you can read the terms, sold listings make more sense. Compare like with like: original paint against original paint, boxed against boxed, similar wear against similar wear. The site’s guide to using eBay sold listings for lure values walks through the method.
FAQ
Is there an official grading scale for vintage fishing lures?
There is no single standard every seller follows. Collector clubs and auction houses have used descriptive grades such as mint, excellent, very good and good, and some use numeric scales, but definitions vary. Read the description and photos rather than relying on a grade word.
Are age lines bad on a wooden lure?
Light age lines are common on older wooden lures and many collectors accept them as part of an original finish. Heavy age lines that lift or flake paint are a condition problem.
What does NIB mean on a lure listing?
New in box. It implies an unused lure with its box. IB simply means in box. Confirm that the box appears correct for the lure and that the lure shows no use.
What is hook drag?
Marks or scratches in the paint where the hooks swung against the body during use or storage. Light hook drag is normal on many vintage lures; heavy hook drag down to bare material is a bigger deduction.
Does a repaint make a lure worthless?
Not worthless, but repainted lures are generally treated very differently from original-paint lures by collectors. A repaint should always be disclosed.
Bottom line
Grade words are a starting point. The details are what count: where the chips are, whether the hooks are right, whether the box belongs. Learn the vocabulary, describe flaws in plain sentences, and ask sellers to do the same. You will make better buys and write listings buyers trust.